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Championship-worthy Basil Pesto

Writer: Kevin BeaneKevin Beane

have made my own pesto for years, starting soon after I got a pasta machine. Sometimes I use the supermarket Buitoni pesto out of convenience. It is good but not the same. Only recently, after retiring, I have decided to seek out the very best advice by top chefs. These differences between the recipe I used before and this one amount to tweaks. The few ingredients are basically the same as what I always used. They are fresh basil, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil, Pecorino and Parmesan cheese, and salt. There is actually a World Pesto Championship and I have included specific ingredient choices and preparation tips from championship competitors.

  • 2 1/2 cups Fresh basil leaves - small Genovese basil leaves (best for color and flavor), optionally washed quickly in cold water and dried between two paper towels. The best source is from healthy basil plants (in season). Color of leaves should be bright and fresh. Small leaves that curl under like spoons are best.

  • 1 Garlic clove, smashed, skinned, and roughly chopped - look for young and fresh garlic heads. Smell: not too strong (old garlic heads may have green stems poking out and the aroma is stronger). Use a small clove.

  • 1 Tbsp untoasted Pine Nuts (pinoli) - I have bought them in glass jars and resealable pouches. They should be as fresh as possible and waxy in appearance. If you aren’t going to use them right away (or don’t use all at once) store them in the freezer because they spoil rather quickly due to relatively high fat content.

  • 1/2 cup Extra Virgin olive oil, divided, and more if needed - This is a whole subject unto itself. Every olive oil sold is labeled “extra virgin” and this has come to mean nothing. Most olive oil bottles or cans contain a blend of oils. When making pesto, I only buy California Olive Ranch olive oil exclusively made from Californian olives … and nothing else. I’ve never had trouble finding it in supermarkets. They also make a “world market” variation which I cannot vouch for as containing only olive oil. It is probably less expensive but I am not interested in saving money here. Other brands that top competitors use are Lucini and La Tourangelle. The olive oil should be light and delicate, not dark and peppery.

  • Pecorino and Parmesan Reggiano cheeses - Pecorino is made from goat’s milk whereas Parmesan is made from cow’s milk. If you really want to do it right, buy in blocks and grate yourself. Look for a wheel or wedge with the Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) mark. A top producer in Cello. Most Parmesan cheese you would find in a jar or shaker contain cellulose, an additive made from wood pulp that helps prevent caking, however this is considered to be harmless. The percentage of cellulose can be almost 10 percent. They also contain potassium sorbate, a preservative. Things in America are loosey goosey, but according to EU law, anything labeled Parmesan must contain just three ingredients: milk, salt, and animal rennet. So, even though it is more work for you, the best Parmesan cheese is going to be a DOP-approved chunk that you grate yourself. You will need 6 Tbsp (packed) of grated Parmesan and 4 Tbsp (packed) of grated Pecorino.

Fine Sea Salt - You will only be adding a small amount (less than 1/2 tsp) because cheese is salty. Use just a pinch at a time after first tasting to see if it’s a good idea to add more.

Lemon slice - if storing in the refrigerator (not using immediately)


Equipment

  • Food processor

  • Container with tight lid for storage

  • Small spatula for scraping

  • Paper towels for drying leaves

  • Salad spinner, if you have one

Preparation

  1. To prevent the basil from oxidizing, freeze the bowl and blade of your food processor for half an hour.

  2. Refrigerate the olive oil for the same amount of time.

  3. Remove a sufficient quantity of basil leaves. Use only small leaves as the larger ones smell different (minty). If you decide to wash them, don’t soak very long, use a salad spinner if you have one, and press leaves between two paper towels. Leaves must be dry. Do not use stems as they contain a lot of water.


Directions

  1. Add the garlic, pine nuts, and just 2 Tbsp olive oil to the food processor. Pulse a few times, then scrape down the sides of the bowl.

  2. Add the basil leaves and 2 more Tbsp of oil. Pulse until finely chopped.

  3. Add the cheeses. With machine running, slowly stream the rest of the olive oil and blend until creamy. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.

  4. Taste and adjust saltiness with just a dash if needed. Stir in more olive oil, if needed, to loosen the texture. It should not be thick.

  5. Use immediately or store in an appropriately sized jar or other just-large-enough container with a tight lid. Add a layer of olive oil to prevent browning and top with a lemon slice. It will last up to one week in the fridge. If using with pasta (the usual case although it can be added to soups or sandwiches), thin it first with some pasta cooking water, otherwise it will be too thick. If you discover that it is too oily or watery, you can add some grated Parmesan.

 
 
 

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© 2022 by Kevin A. Beane

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